27 March 2011
07 March 2011
Baños, Ecuador
Slightly off-topic, but still consistent with the theme of misadventurs, this post will interest anyone visiting Ecuador.
I found myself in Baños, Ecuador- a tourist hotspot 2.5 hours from Quito. Getting there is easy: about a $2.5 bus ride from the Quitumbre station in south Quito. The Quitumbre station is accessible by the Trole- take any line south until you reach the terminal.
The first thing you'll notice on arriving to Baños is he lack of variety in its economy: the main roads are saturated with adventure businesses, all offering the same services, varying only slightly in prices. In almost every shop, you'll find the same thing: rafting, ziplining, puenting, climbing, dune-buggies, chivas, etc. After a while seeing the same type of food, artisanal goods, and adventure services in every shop becomes slightly monotonous, but at least convenience prevails. Didn't get a chance to check out that sweet-smelling taffy stand? There's guaranteed to be another two in the next corner.
Baños is best known for its natural baths and waterfalls that surround the area. Because of the high visitor volume, the baths aren't exactly the most pristine. Your experience at the baths depend on the time of the day- the earlier it is, the cleaner they'll be and the more enjoyable your visit. Some friends even told us that the early-morning wake up wasn't worth it.
Being the cyclophiles that we are, we decided that the best (and cheapest) way to spend our Saturday was to rent some bikes and ride to Puyo. Most adventure shops advertise this route as a simple, leisurely ride around the neighborhood.
Well it's not.
The 60km (35mile) -long route was tough, not because of the distance, but because of the crappy bikes. We payed $5 for mountain bikes that were on their way to extinction. Mine lacked brakes, another had a wobbly wheel and didn't shift, and there was even one whose tire blew out. The adventure agency was nice enough to give us a pump (that didn't work) and an eclectic collection of biking and equestrian helmets. I'd recommend walking around town and test-riding the bikes before taking them on a day-long ride. We didn't, so we suffered. Our bad.
The route to Puyo follows a single winding road, with enough downhills during the first half, only to climb back up again during the second half. You share the road with monster trucks and buses that speed around the curves and sometimes get too close for comfort. Whenever there is a vehicle-only tunnel, the road rewards bikers and pedestrians with a scenic cobblestone path that follows the bend of the mountain.
The thing about this route is either you go all the way to Puyo or...else. Or else you'll have to hitch a ride back. There is a small town about 1/4 of the way to Puyo that has the only bus stop back to Baños. It's hard to miss, since it's a noticeable tourist attraction, catering to those wanting to get a closer look at its waterfall. From that town onwards, it's just you and your legs fending for yourself along the long road. Be wary of dogs and take your time to enjoy some of the many beautiful views of the valley.
Don't expect much once you get to Puyo. The only exciting aspect of Puyo is the promise of an inexpensive bus trip back to Baños. And ice cream. Just be glad that you made it.
I found myself in Baños, Ecuador- a tourist hotspot 2.5 hours from Quito. Getting there is easy: about a $2.5 bus ride from the Quitumbre station in south Quito. The Quitumbre station is accessible by the Trole- take any line south until you reach the terminal.
The first thing you'll notice on arriving to Baños is he lack of variety in its economy: the main roads are saturated with adventure businesses, all offering the same services, varying only slightly in prices. In almost every shop, you'll find the same thing: rafting, ziplining, puenting, climbing, dune-buggies, chivas, etc. After a while seeing the same type of food, artisanal goods, and adventure services in every shop becomes slightly monotonous, but at least convenience prevails. Didn't get a chance to check out that sweet-smelling taffy stand? There's guaranteed to be another two in the next corner.
Baños is best known for its natural baths and waterfalls that surround the area. Because of the high visitor volume, the baths aren't exactly the most pristine. Your experience at the baths depend on the time of the day- the earlier it is, the cleaner they'll be and the more enjoyable your visit. Some friends even told us that the early-morning wake up wasn't worth it.
Being the cyclophiles that we are, we decided that the best (and cheapest) way to spend our Saturday was to rent some bikes and ride to Puyo. Most adventure shops advertise this route as a simple, leisurely ride around the neighborhood.
Well it's not.
The 60km (35mile) -long route was tough, not because of the distance, but because of the crappy bikes. We payed $5 for mountain bikes that were on their way to extinction. Mine lacked brakes, another had a wobbly wheel and didn't shift, and there was even one whose tire blew out. The adventure agency was nice enough to give us a pump (that didn't work) and an eclectic collection of biking and equestrian helmets. I'd recommend walking around town and test-riding the bikes before taking them on a day-long ride. We didn't, so we suffered. Our bad.
The route to Puyo follows a single winding road, with enough downhills during the first half, only to climb back up again during the second half. You share the road with monster trucks and buses that speed around the curves and sometimes get too close for comfort. Whenever there is a vehicle-only tunnel, the road rewards bikers and pedestrians with a scenic cobblestone path that follows the bend of the mountain.
The thing about this route is either you go all the way to Puyo or...else. Or else you'll have to hitch a ride back. There is a small town about 1/4 of the way to Puyo that has the only bus stop back to Baños. It's hard to miss, since it's a noticeable tourist attraction, catering to those wanting to get a closer look at its waterfall. From that town onwards, it's just you and your legs fending for yourself along the long road. Be wary of dogs and take your time to enjoy some of the many beautiful views of the valley.
Don't expect much once you get to Puyo. The only exciting aspect of Puyo is the promise of an inexpensive bus trip back to Baños. And ice cream. Just be glad that you made it.
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